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Tie rods: how to choose

The tie rod connects the two front wheels so they turn together. On a lifted or big-tire truck it is often the part that bends first.

Tie rod end with castle nut on a steering knuckle, seen under a car
A tie rod end on a steering knuckle, with its castle nut. Photo: Craig Howell, CC BY 2.0 (resized), via Wikimedia Commons.

What it does

On a solid axle, one tie rod runs knuckle to knuckle. On independent front suspension there are two, one per side, with inner and outer ends. Adjusting the tie rod length sets toe, so any replacement needs an alignment.

What to compare

  • Bar or tube. At the same outside diameter, MotorTrend's testing article says solid bar is stronger than tube. A larger tube can be stiffer and lighter than a smaller solid bar. See materials.
  • Joint type. Tapered tie rod ends or rod ends (Heim joints). See joints before you pick rod ends for a street truck.
  • Threads and adjusters. Look for jam nuts or clamps on both ends and enough thread engagement. MotorTrend's custom tie rod build stresses welded threaded bungs and full engagement.
  • Clearance. A thicker rod has to clear the differential cover, springs and tires through full travel and full lock.

Measure before you order

Speedway Motors measures tie rods center to center (joint center to joint center) with the wheels pointed straight. Then record thread size, pitch and hand, and the taper. Full method on sizing and measuring.

Questions

Is a bigger tie rod always better?

No. It must also clear everything through travel and full lock, and the joints and hardware must match its strength. A strong bar on weak joints just moves the weak point.

Where this comes from

Last reviewed 2026-10-19. General information only: your vehicle and part maker's instructions come first.